Could we please have something between boring and death?
There are few options when traveling from Northern Thailand into Laos. When the road is functioning and the weather good, a bumpy mini-bus is feasible, but most opt for a boat trip down the Mekong.
It really isn’t very far to Luang Prabang and two types of boats make the journey. Death-defying speedboats fly down the narrow and rocky Mekong River and complete the journey in just a few hours. These are extremely tiny and extremely loud boats on which at least a couple of tourists die each year. Due to the danger and relative unpleasantness of the speedboats, most travelers opt for the 2-day slow-boat which fully lives up to its name: SLOW. Wanting to arrive to Luang Prabang with our hearing and our lives we also chose this option. Rumors of a boat that can complete the journey in a single day abound, but from what we could tell this has been shut down by the “slow-boat mafia” or “Pak Bang Cartel”.
Pak Bang is the only place along the route that can support tourists staying overnight. It seems to exist primarily for this purpose as most of the establishments in the town seem to be guest houses or restaurants. Almost no one stays more than overnight. It would seem to be in the interest of Pak Bang business owners that the boat between Thailand and Luang Prabang Laos take two days.
Our boat “left” at 9 AM, but really pulled out of port at 11:30. At 6 PM we squeezed between dozens of other boats at the landing in Pak Bang and off-loaded via a narrow plank that was roughly half a foot wide. We found a guest house (they get cheaper as you climb uphill) and got dinner. The lights & power in Pak Bang shut down around 9 PM, so its best to get an early start on the evening.
The following day our boat departed only one hour behind schedule but was crammed with people. A little mutiny goes a long way and when it was clear not everyone could fit aboard for the 8 hour journey the operators agreed to launch a second boat (which, unannounced to those who changed boats, was scheduled to leave 2 hours later). We decided to stay on the first boat as our luggage was buried under the floorboards. Both boats arrived in Luang Prabang at the same as we made a dozen stops at random beaches to on- or off-load passengers and their cargo and to allow Lao school children come aboard with baskets of pringles, coca-cola, and water to sell.
The journey, while slow, was very enjoyable. The river is very rocky and nestled in a very steep valley with only extremely small villages lining the shore. The Northern Mekong has a very different character than the wide, smooth Southern part.
” at least a couple of tourists die each year.” on fast boats.
Not true at all, Never heard of one in fourteen years in Laos. Just wild tourist urban myths. Not one newspaper account, not one announcement by embassy. Not saying it hasn’t happened, just that I have never heard of it, and I pay attention. Now drowning from swimming in the river whild drunk, ya, it happens. Or drug over dose, sure. Speedboats, I’m waiting.
@ robb.
We did not take the speed boat, nor did we have friends that did, so we cannot speak from our’s (or their) experience, but what we posted was what we read both in forums online as well as in the Let’s Go and Lonely Planet Guides.
Thanks for posting your two cents. Have you done this journey before?
The slow boat is not that slow, and we went in the dry season! What is wrong with slow ? It was great ! Nice chance to see life along the river – people just living their lives , no show for tourists. The ordinary people use the boats for transport. Pak Beng is OK – a bit ordinary in terms of accomodation. Westerners want everything fast. You’re in Asia – slow down a bit and go with the flow (of the River).
You are definitely right that there was no show for tourists, which was a bit refreshing, but after the first day on a wood plank bench, I was ready to be to Luang Prabang. I see the value in slowing down, but vacation only lasts so long. I would rather see the sights than see the same river for 2 days!